Every lawn has basic needs that must be met to keep it healthy and beautiful. To learn more about what you can
    do for your lawn, select a topic from the list below.

    Lawn Fertilizing
    Effective fertilizing involves more than simply picking up the first bag of fertilizer you find and spreading it over
    your lawn once or twice a year. To ensure your lawn benefits from your efforts, We offer these guidelines for
    fertilizing your own lawn.

    Fertilizer Types

    Fertilizer is available in two types - liquid and granular. Choose the one that meets your lawn's needs in the form that is easiest for
    you to use.

    Liquid fertilizers are fast-acting. Since they are quickly absorbed, they require application every 2-3 weeks. Most are mixed with
    water prior to application with a garden hose attachment.


    Granular fertilizers are applied with a spreader and must be watered into the grass. Granular fertilizers are easier to control
    because you can actually see how much fertilizer you are using and where it is being dispersed.

    Granular fertilizers are produced in two different formulations, quick-release and slow-release.
     

    Quick-Release and Slow-Release Fertilizer

    Quick-release fertilizer typically lasts for three to four weeks, depending upon the temperature and the amount of rainfall. For
    general use, these water-soluble nitrogen fertilizers (WSN) are also known as commodity or field grade fertilizers.
     

    There are two main types of slow-release fertilizers, know as water-insoluble nitrogen (WIN), available for specific applications.
     

    • Sulfur coated, which lasts for about 8 weeks.
    • Polymer coated, lasting about 12 weeks.
     

    Both time estimates may vary depending upon the amount of rainfall. To avoid unwanted growth stimulation, do not apply slow-
    release fertilizer late in the growing season.
     

    Breaking the Code - How to Read a Fertilizer Label
     

    The three numbers (often called NPK) on a fertilizer package tell you the percentage of the base elements nutrient makeup by
    weight. These percentages in fertilizer compounds are formulated for everything from asparagus to zinnias. The three main
    components are:
     
    • Nitrogen (symbol N) for leaf development and vivid green color.


    • Phosphorous (symbol P) for root growth.


    • Potassium (symbol K) for root development and disease resistance.
     

    For example, a bag marked "16-4-8" contains 16 percent nitrogen, 4 percent phosphorous and 8 percent potassium.
    The other 72 percent is usually inert filler material, such as clay pellets or granular limestone.
    To know how much of each is in the bag, multiply the percentage by the size (weight) of the bag. (example: a 50 lb. bag of 10-10-10
    contains 5 pounds each of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium).
     

    There may also be secondary elements such as calcium for root growth, magnesium for sugar formation, and sulfur for green
    color. The minor elements that may be present are zinc, iron, manganese, copper, molybdenum and boron.
     

    Don't feel concerned or cheated by the presence of the so-called inert material in the fertilizer bag. Its purpose is to help distribute
    the fertilizer evenly and prevent chemical burn.
     

    Why Does It Matter?
     

    Your lawn has a specific fertilizer requirement for the time it is applied and the correct amount. Your fertilizer choice depends on
    the type of turfgrass you grow. Read the instructions on the package carefully before purchasing.
     

    Weed and Feed and Pre- or Post- Emergents

    Weed and Feed is a common term which refers to fertilizer that contains weed killer for broadleaf weeds such as dandelions.
     

    • Pre-emergents, such as those commonly used to prevent crabgrass, are weed killers which must be applied before the weeds
    germinate. They are ineffective if the weeds are already actively growing. Pre-emergent weed killers are often mixed with fertilizer
    and are designed to be spread in early spring. Crabgrass normally germinates when the ground temperature reaches 60° F — the
    ground temperature at which dogwood trees start to bud and forsythias begin blooming.


    • Post-emergent The weed killer in these types of fertilizers are contact killers, and are effective only if the weeds are already
    actively growing. They will not kill weeds which have not yet germinated.
     

    Timing of the application of pre-and post-emergents is critical for success. Applying these products too early or too late is
    essentially a waste of time. Read the package carefully before selecting to be sure which product fits your needs.
     

    Before Fertilizing, Follow These Steps:
     

    Step #1 — Identify your Grass Type

    Identify your grass as a cool or warm season grass. A large section of the U.S. is considered transitional, which means that both
    warm and cool season grasses may grow in the area. If you live in this area, a clue to your grass type is the fact that warm season
    grasses will turn brown after the first frost. Cool season grasses will generally stay green all year long in the cool and transitional
    zones. They will not survive the summers in the warm season zone.
     

    Step #2 — Do a Soil Test

    Determine the pH of your soil. pH is a measure of the alkalinity or acidity of a substance. The pH of your soil is important because
    it determines the ability of the fertilizer to use the ingredients in the fertilizer. Your soil test will determine which fertilizer is best for
    you.
     
    Bring your soil as close to neutral as possible to get the most benefit from the fertilizer you use. A pH range between 6.0 and 7.0 is
    accepted as being the best for growing quality grass.
     

    Step #3 — Determine your Lawn Size

    The fertilizer package will tell you how many square feet of coverage it contains. Determine the square footage of lawn to be
    fertilized. Fertilizers, weed-killers and other soil amendments are typically sold by the amount necessary to cover a certain square
    footage. Determine this figure by multiplying the length of your lawn by its width. Then, subtract the square footage of the house,
    driveway and other areas not to be fertilized.
     

    An example using rough measurements:
     

    Lawn Measurement
    250 by 150 feet
      37,500 sq. ft.

    House Measurement
    80 by 36 feet  
         2,880 sq. ft.

    Driveway Measurement
    12 by 50 feet  
            600 sq. ft

     Total  
    34,020 sq. ft.

    34,020  divided by 5000 sq. ft. per bag equals 6.8 or roughly 7 bags of fertilizer.

    Applying Fertilizer
     

    Fertilizing Cool Season Grasses
     

    Fertilize heavily in the fall, lightly (or not at all) in early spring.
    The growing season for these grasses is mainly in the cool months of spring and fall. Cool season grasses grow best when the
    temperature is in the range of 60 to 70° Fahrenheit.
     

    In fall, fertilize when the intense heat of the summer has subsided. Time your fertilization so the fertilizer will become ineffective
    before the onset of severe cold weather. Fall is the favorite time of year for cool season grasses, so care for these types is most
    important at this time of year. You may choose to apply a special winterizer fertilizer for the fall application. These fertilizers are
    specially-formulated to help protect the grass during the winter months.
     

    In the spring, begin fertilizing early. You may use either slow or quick release fertilizer, but time your fertilization regimen so the
    fertilizer will be used up before the onset of hot summer weather.
     

    Fertilizing Warm Season Grasses
     

    Fertilize when the grass starts to turn green in spring. The growing season for these grasses, depending upon the geographic
    area, is during late spring and summer. Warm season grasses grow best when the temperature is in the range of 80 to 95 °
    Fahrenheit, although they will also grow outside of this range.
     

    Begin fertilizing in late spring when the lawn begins to show signs of life. You may use either slow or quick release fertilizer, but
    time your fertilization regimen so the fertilizer will be used up before the onset of severe hot summer weather. Begin fertilizing
    again after the intense heat of the summer has subsided.
     

    Applying Fertilizer
     

    Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when fertilizing, and ensure that you time the life of the fertilizer so it is not present at
    the onset of severe hot or cold temperatures. Failing to do so could damage your lawn. When fertilizing, too much is not a good
    thing.
     
    Broadcasting Granules
     

    • Make sure the spreader and fertilizer are dry.
    • Set the rate-of-flow lever according to the setting listed on the fertilizer bag. If you have any doubts, apply too little rather than too
    much.
    • Close the hopper vent. Place the spreader on a hard surface and fill the hopper slowly. Wear gloves and be sure to keep fertilizer
    away from eyes and skin.
    • For complete coverage, cut the recommended application rate in half and apply evenly in a criss-cross manner.
    • Clean the spreader thoroughly after use.
     

    Spraying Liquid Fertilizer
      
    Do not apply other chemicals, such as herbicides or insecticides, at the same time as fertilizer. Leftover fertilizer does not store
    very well. Try to buy only enough for the season's needs.

    As an added safety precaution, wear goggles, a dust mask, long pants, a long-sleeve shirt and rubber boots when applying
    fertilizer. Be sure to keep people and pets off the grass for at least 24 hours after the application or until the lawn is dry. For
    maximum efficiency and safety, do not apply on a windy day.

    • Fill the sprayer canister with liquid fertilizer. Carefully attach the canister unit to the end of your garden hose.

    • Move at a steady pace to cover the entire lawn evenly. Walk slowly, spraying from side to side.

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